March Hort Minute- My Favorite Garden Tool

February Hort Minute—Landscape Design Tips by Paige Mercer

January Hort Minute—"The Old Elm and its Display" by Janet Craft and Paula Jones

Janet Craft and Paula Jones presented a slide show on "The Great Old Elm Tree Ring Display" to the Town of Ipswich at the Board of Selectmen’s meeting on Nov. 30. They presented it a second time to the IGC at the January meeting. You can read about it and see a PDF of the slide show below.

In July 2012, the American Elm Tree, which had stood at the corner of East Street and County Street for over 170 years, finally succumbed to disease and was taken down in 2012. This majestic old elm witnessed nearly two centuries of Ipswich history. Working with the Ipswich Department of Public Works, the Shade Tree and Beautification Committee saved several large cross-sections of the tree to preserve and prepare for a “tree ring” display. With the efforts of many volunteers and interested citizens, the tree section has been sanded and preserved. Harvard University forest ecologist David Orwig officially dated the tree 171 years old by counting the rings. Working with the Ipswich Museum and the town historian, the committee identified significant dates in Ipswich’s history to mark on the tree section.

The Great Old Elm Display includes dates and photos of Ipswich and world events and writings inspired by the elm tree by David Wallace and John Updike. It is on permanent display in an exhibition case next to the Treasurer’s Office on the first floor of the Town Hall, where the public can see and enjoy this look at Ipswich history for many years to come.

Click here to See Old Elm Display Presentation Slides

Dahlia Swap- November Hort Minute

Summer Hort Post - Annuals for the Long Haul by Horticulturist Gail Anderson

HORT MINUTE - March Meeting w/ Therese Armstrong & Paula Jones

Double Click Here for 2015 Plant Label List (PDF).

Double Click Here for 2015 Plant Label List (Word Doc).

This information on plant labeling is also under the page Annual Plant Sale tab and it replaces last year's format. Thanks to Gail Anderson for all her efforts on producing this helpful format and listing.

HORT MINUTE- with Kerry Mackin - February 2015 Meeting

HORT MINUTE November 2014 IGC Meeting

October 2014 Hort Minute by Therese Benadé Armstrong

September Hort Minute by Gail Anderson, IGC Horticulturist

January 2014 "Hort Minute" by Susan Stone

    The Latin name for African Violets is Saintpaulia after the founder Baron Walter Von Saint Paul-lllare in 1892 and native to Tanzania, southeastern Kenya in eastern tropical Africa. The African Violet is in the family of Gesneriaceae which also includes such plants as Gloxinia, Streptocarpus, Aeshynanthus, and Episcia.
    African Violets are quite easy to take care of and just need a bit of love and care for it to bloom. If it is in just the right sunny/humid location they have been known to flower almost continuously. Just keep the soil moist to dry, and allow the soil around the roots to dry out before watering to encourage blooming. It is best to water from the bottom with room temperature water. I keep a gallon jug of water full at all times. This ensures room temp water. When feeding, use 100% water soluble African Violet fertilizer, keeping in mind there is a specific food for the miniature varieties. Basically they need equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Read the container labels as some companies use cheaper ingredients with impurities.
    African Violets thrive in moderate to bright, indirect, indoor light. Rotate your plant every time you water them or once a week to ensure even sunlight. They do best with temperatures around 70 degrees, trying not to allow temps to fall below 60 or rise above 80 degrees. African Violets thrive with humidity. In the Usambara Mountains of East Africa the humidity is generally 70-80 percent. In most homes they do best with at least 50-60 percent humidity. Without this the buds will fail to open and overall your plant will not be happy. An easy way to increase humidity levels is to place open jars of water around your plants, or have their pots sitting a top of moistened pebbles. They also like to be placed in the bathroom while someone is in the shower.
    African Violets are susceptible to powdery mildew. The leaves will look white/powdery. I spray common Lysol above the plant from a high vantage point so a fine mist lands on the plant. They are also susceptible to crown rot which occurs when there is poor air circulation and when they have been over watered.
    Lastly, the best potting soil for African Violets is one with no dirt or soil, and keeping the ph between 5.8 and 6.2. They grow best being slightly root bound in small plastic or ceramic pots. A good soilless mixture to make yourself is (using a lb. coffee can as a unit of measure):
3 parts Canadian Sphagnum Peat
2 parts Vermiculite
1 part Perlite
1/4 part Ground Charcoal
2 TB Dolomite Lime
1 TB Superphosphate
    If this is too much, you can purchase commercially bagged African Violet soil and put a couple handfuls of perlite or vermiculite in it. To avoid any micro organisms that can be in the soil, I pasteurize the soil before potting. It can be baked on a tin foil lined and covered baking sheet at 180 degrees, and checking to make sure the internal temp is also 180 degrees for 30 minutes. This also kills weed seeds and fungi. Last fall after repotting most of my houseplants before bringing them inside for the winter, I noticed that all the plants that were repotted grew mushrooms. So now I bake my soil, or, just inquire with a reputable greenhouse about soils.
    There are many websites, but a couple of good ones are: www.avsa.org and www.optimara.com African Violets look pretty any time, but especially when they are flowering during the cold winter months.

Hort "Organic" Minute from November '13 Meeting

 Worm Castings as Insecticide

by Barbara Monahan

Worm castings as pesticide, specifically as an insecticide may be used for the eradication or at least the control of White Fly and Giant "Wooley" White Fly. Worm castings are also helpful in discouraging other insects that suck on leaves (e.g. aphids.) When you water-in the worm castings, the resulting liquid flowing throughout the plant repels the insect by its taste. Sometimes the insects stay away. If they return later, use an application of new worm castings as a preventive about every three months.

Protocol:
• Clean off all adversely affected leaves and any dead branches.
• Clear out all debris on soil.
• Spread worm castings two inches deep out to the drip line of the plant.
• Layer an organic mulch tht will decompose within a year over the worm castings.
• Water-in deeply.
• With a couple of days, water-in deeply again.
• The insects should leave.
• Again cleanup all debris.

Note: The worm castings have no discernable odor for us. they are dark brown with a fine texture. Gordon's Nursery carries an eight quart bag.

Hort Minute from October '13 Meeting

From Gail Anderson, IGC Horticulturist
Have a question or want to suggest a topic for Hort Minute? Please e-mail Gail at riverfront37@verizon.net.
Question: “How do you prune hydrangeas?”
Submitted by Carol Williams (Thank you!)

General Rules of Thumb
•    Many hydrangeas do not need pruning. Simply cut off dead tips or branches in the spring.
•    If you must prune heavily to control size, the plant is in the wrong place.
•    Do not prune any hydrangeas between September and January
•    Do not “shear” hydrangeas. That is, do not cut them uniformly tight like a hedge. Cut individual stems.
•    When pruning, use hand pruners or a small hand saw, not mechanical tools.
•    Do not remove more than 1/3 of the stems in one season.
•    Remove dead flowers any time you wish.

Two Questions
Ask only two questions:
WHEN to prune?
HOW to prune?

WHEN TO PRUNE is determined by the species (type) of hydrangea
Depending on the species, hydrangeas form flower buds in one of two ways:
On NEW growth of the current season
On OLD growth of the previous season
When to prune will be determined by the time of flower bud formation. You want to avoid cutting off buds of future flowers.

Too complicated? See the WHEN and HOW of the four most common hydrangeas below.

HOW TO PRUNE is determined by the shrub’s overall shape (habit)
    Canes: If your hydrangea has canes (stems) that grow straight from the ground without branches (like a porcupine), cut the tallest or floppiest canes to the ground. Do not cut canes halfway.
    Branched: If your hydrangea has stems with branches, prune back to a crotch.
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Smooth Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens)

WHEN? Prune late winter/early spring
(Blooms on new growth)

HOW? Cut tallest or floppiest canes to the ground
Note: Can be completely cut to the ground—optional, done every few years in winter or very early spring.
_____________________________________________________________________

Panicle Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata)

WHEN? Prune late winter/early spring
(Blooms on new growth)

HOW? Cut branched stems or twigs to a crotch
Cane forming varieties: Cut tallest or floppiest canes to the ground

______________________________________________________________________________

Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)

WHEN? Prune immediately after blooming (early-mid summer)
(Blooms on old growth)

HOW? Cut branched stems to a crotch or to the ground
 ________________________________________________________________________

Big Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

WHEN?
Old fashioned: Prune immediately after blooming (mid-summer)
Blooms once a season on old growth

Reblooming (new): Prune immediately after first flush of bloom (mid-summer)
Blooms on old and new growth
Note: Deadheading spent flowers will encourage reblooming

HOW? Cut tallest canes to the ground

"Hort Minute" from September 2013 Meeting

If you missed the "Hort Minute" at the Essex Greenbelt September meeting, here is some timely advice which our horticulturist, Gail, presented with the fall season in mind:

DECORATING WITH BERRIES

Please do not decorate--inside or out-- with invasive berries, particularly Oriental Bittersweet and Multiflora Rose. Once established these plants are capable of choking a tree! Even if you think you are disposing of the fruits properly in the trash, just one dropped berry can be eaten by birds or rodents and spread elsewhere.

If you are decorating outside with faux berries, look for waterproof ones. Squeeze a faux berry. If it "gives" and is soft, the outer layer will probably burst in wet weather revealing the unattractive core. If the faux berry feels hard and "plastic-like", it is probably waterproof. However, there are problems with faux berries, too. Birds can be harmed by trying to eat them. I was heartbroken one winter to see a blue jay gulping down my artificial winterberry.

FALL PLANTING- PERENNIALS and SHRUBS

September/Early October is not too late to plant perennials and shrubs providing you continue to water them regularly until the ground freezes. Fall is a good time to find bargain in the nurseries, too. The only downside, many nursery plants are pot bound in the fall after growing in containers throughout the summer. You may even have to cut away the pot.

It's important to lossen the roots of container grown plants (herbaceous and woodly) before planting. The outer roots should be teased until they no longer resemble the shape of the pot. Big circling roots that cannot be freed, especially at the bottom, should be cut.

Two tools that aid this "root teasing" process are a three pronged hand cultivator and a soil knife. High quality soil knives are available at Corliss. Basic models like mine are available online at A.M. Leonard. Use the cultivar like a comb to loosen the roots. If the plant is very badly pot bound, make approximately six vertical cuts around the root ball from top to bottom. Then try teasing again with the cultivator. Be just a little "brutal." The plant will thank you!