We will have wreaths, ribbons, ornaments and wire to create the decorations for the Ascension Church, the First Church in Ipswich UCC, the Hall Haskell House, the Schools' Administrative Building, the Fire House, Police Station, Town Hall, the Train Station and a couple for special friends. We will also decorate the library interior.
Please remember to bring clippers and your creative genius. PLEASE bring additional materials from YOUR OWN GARDENS to fill planters and decorate wreaths.
Bring what you have, such as:
Branches of greens- arborvitae, balsam, yew, boxwood, juniper, pine, rhododendron, and leucothoe. The rhodie leaves make a splash sprayed gold!
Berries- bayberry, winterberry, and rosehips (no wild rosehips--these are invasive)
Dried Material- Artemisia, grasses, seed heads, pods and pine cones.
Mark your calendars. This meeting is always the highpoint of our Garden Club year.
We look forward to seeing all of you and celebrating the beginning of the holiday season of 2013.
PLEASE, PLEASE RSVP by November 28th so that we can plan for greens work and luncheon.
This reply is very necessary for planning.
RSVP to Maureen (978) 790-1527 or nicknicknana@yahoo.com nicknicknana@yahoo.com
Tuesday, November 26, 2013
IGC Annual Greens Meeting- Friday, December 6th
Monday, November 25, 2013
Hort "Organic" Minute from November '13 Meeting
Worm Castings as Insecticide
by Barbara MonahanWorm castings as pesticide, specifically as an insecticide may be used for the eradication or at least the control of White Fly and Giant "Wooley" White Fly. Worm castings are also helpful in discouraging other insects that suck on leaves (e.g. aphids.) When you water-in the worm castings, the resulting liquid flowing throughout the plant repels the insect by its taste. Sometimes the insects stay away. If they return later, use an application of new worm castings as a preventive about every three months.
Protocol:
• Clean off all adversely affected leaves and any dead branches.
• Clear out all debris on soil.
• Spread worm castings two inches deep out to the drip line of the plant.
• Layer an organic mulch tht will decompose within a year over the worm castings.
• Water-in deeply.
• With a couple of days, water-in deeply again.
• The insects should leave.
• Again cleanup all debris.
Note: The worm castings have no discernable odor for us. they are dark brown with a fine texture. Gordon's Nursery carries an eight quart bag.
Sunday, November 24, 2013
The Year the Monarch Didn't Appear
Catherine Carney Feldman, a former presenter to the IGC on butterfly gardens asked to share this recent NY Times article with members of the IGC. If you haven't already read this comprehensive, as well as sobering, look at native plants and their connection to insects (i.e. bees, Monarchs) on your own, here is another reminder of what our garden club and others must do to spread the importance of biological diversity in word and deed. Thanks Catherine.
The Year the Monarch Didn’t Appear
November 22, 2013
By JIM ROBBINS
ON the first of November, when Mexicans celebrate a holiday called the
Day of the Dead, some also celebrate the millions of monarch butterflies
that, without fail, fly to the mountainous fir forests of central
Mexico on that day. They are believed to be souls of the dead, returned.
This year, for or the first time in memory, the monarch butterflies
didn’t come, at least not on the Day of the Dead. They began to straggle
in a week later than usual, in record-low numbers. Last year’s low of
60 million now seems great compared with the fewer than three million
that have shown up so far this year. Some experts fear that the
spectacular migration could be near collapse.
“It does not look good,” said Lincoln P. Brower, a monarch expert at Sweet Briar College.
It is only the latest bad news about the dramatic decline of insect populations.
Another insect in serious trouble is the wild bee, which has thousands
of species. Nicotine-based pesticides called neonicotinoids are
implicated in their decline, but even if they were no longer used,
experts say, bees, monarchs and many other species of insect would still
be in serious trouble.
That’s because of another major factor that has not been widely
recognized: the precipitous loss of native vegetation across the United
States.
“There’s no question that the loss of habitat is huge,” said Douglas
Tallamy, a professor of entomology at the University of Delaware, who
has long warned of the perils of disappearing insects. “We notice the
monarch and bees because they are iconic insects,” he said. “But what do
you think is happening to everything else?”
A big part of it is the way the United States farms. As the price of
corn has soared in recent years, driven by federal subsidies for
biofuels, farmers have expanded their fields. That has meant plowing
every scrap of earth that can grow a corn plant, including millions of
acres of land once reserved in a federal program for conservation
purposes.
Another major cause is farming with Roundup, a herbicide that kills
virtually all plants except crops that are genetically modified to
survive it.
As a result, millions of acres of native plants, especially milkweed, an
important source of nectar for many species, and vital for monarch
butterfly larvae, have been wiped out. One study showed that Iowa has lost almost 60 percent of its milkweed, and another found 90 percent was gone. “The agricultural landscape has been sterilized,” said Dr. Brower.
The loss of bugs is no small matter. Insects help stitch together the
web of life with essential services, breaking plants down into organic
matter, for example, and dispersing seeds. They are a prime source of
food for birds. Critically, some 80 percent of our food crops are
pollinated by insects, primarily the 4,000 or so species of the flying
dust mops called bees. “All of them are in trouble,” said Marla Spivak, a
professor of apiculture at the University of Minnesota.
Farm fields are not the only problem. Around the world people have
replaced diverse natural habitat with the biological deserts that are
roads, parking lots and bluegrass lawns. Meanwhile, the plants people
choose for their yards are appealing for showy colors or shapes, not for
their ecological role. Studies show that native oak trees in the
mid-Atlantic states host as many as 537 species of caterpillars, which
are important food for birds and other insects. Willows come in second
with 456 species. Ginkgo, on the other hand, which is not native,
supports three species, and zelkova, an exotic plant used to replace elm
trees that died from disease, supports none. So the shelves are nearly
bare for bugs and birds.
Native trees are not only grocery stores, but insect pharmacies as well.
Trees and other plants have beneficial chemicals essential to the
health of bugs. Some monarchs, when afflicted with parasites, seek out
more toxic types of milkweed because they kill the parasites. Bees use
medicinal resins from aspen and willow trees that are antifungal,
antimicrobial and antiviral, to line their nests and to fight infection
and diseases. “Bees scrape off the resins from the leaves, which is kind
of awesome, stick them on their back legs and take them home,” said Dr.
Spivak.
Besides pesticides and lack of habitat, the other big problem bees face
is disease. But these problems are not separate. “Say you have a bee
with viruses,” and they are run-down, Dr. Spivak said. “And they are in a
food desert and have to fly a long distance, and when you find food it
has complicated neurotoxins and the immune system just goes ‘uh-uh.’ Or
they become disoriented and can’t find their way home. It’s too many
stressors all at once.”
There are numerous organizations and individuals dedicated to rebuilding
native plant communities one sterile lawn and farm field at a time. Dr.
Tallamy, a longtime evangelizer for native plants, and the author of
one of the movement’s manuals, “Bringing Nature Home,” says it’s a cause
everyone with a garden or yard can serve. And he says support for it
needs to develop quickly to slow down the worsening crisis in
biodiversity.
When the Florida Department of Transportation last year mowed down
roadside wildflowers where monarch butterflies fed on their epic
migratory journey, “there was a huge outcry,” said Eleanor Dietrich, a
wildflower activist in Florida. So much so, transportation officials
created a new policy that left critical insect habitat un-mowed.
That means reversing the hegemony of chemically green lawns. “If you’ve
got just lawn grass, you’ve got nothing,” said Mace Vaughan of the
Xerces Society, a leading organization in insect conservation. “But as
soon as you create a front yard wildflower meadow you go from an
occasional honeybee to a lawn that might be full of 20 or 30 species of
bees and butterflies and monarchs.”
First and foremost, said Dr. Tallamy, a home for bugs is a matter of
food security. “If the bees were to truly disappear, we would lose 80
percent of the plants,” he said. “That is not an option. That’s a huge
problem for mankind.”
Sunday, November 10, 2013
The Cloth Crafter's Garden
6:45 P.M.
at the
Ipswich Public Library
The Cloth Crafter's Garden explores the connection between textiles and plants. I will discuss cotton and silk, natural dyes from leaves, roots and bark as well as the botanical forms that inspire 'Indian' textile design.
Wednesday, November 6, 2013
Great Marsh Symposium
This year's Great Marsh Symposium is being held Thursday, November 14th at Castle Hill. Many of the topics, sea level rise and others, are related to Don Cheney's talk last month on climate change. The event is free. You can see the list of speakers and sign up at:
www.greatmarsh.org
The Great Marsh website also has a lot of interesting material about our marshes.
Best, Alicia
www.greatmarsh.org
The Great Marsh website also has a lot of interesting material about our marshes.
Best, Alicia
Friday, November 1, 2013
Hort Minute from October '13 Meeting
From Gail Anderson, IGC Horticulturist
Have a question or want to suggest a topic for Hort Minute? Please e-mail Gail at riverfront37@verizon.net.
Question: “How do you prune hydrangeas?”
Submitted by Carol Williams (Thank you!)
General Rules of Thumb
• Many hydrangeas do not need pruning. Simply cut off dead tips or branches in the spring.
• If you must prune heavily to control size, the plant is in the wrong place.
• Do not prune any hydrangeas between September and January
• Do not “shear” hydrangeas. That is, do not cut them uniformly tight like a hedge. Cut individual stems.
• When pruning, use hand pruners or a small hand saw, not mechanical tools.
• Do not remove more than 1/3 of the stems in one season.
• Remove dead flowers any time you wish.
Two Questions
Ask only two questions:
WHEN to prune?
HOW to prune?
WHEN TO PRUNE is determined by the species (type) of hydrangea
Depending on the species, hydrangeas form flower buds in one of two ways:
On NEW growth of the current season
On OLD growth of the previous season
When to prune will be determined by the time of flower bud formation. You want to avoid cutting off buds of future flowers.
Too complicated? See the WHEN and HOW of the four most common hydrangeas below.
HOW TO PRUNE is determined by the shrub’s overall shape (habit)
Canes: If your hydrangea has canes (stems) that grow straight from the ground without branches (like a porcupine), cut the tallest or floppiest canes to the ground. Do not cut canes halfway.
Branched: If your hydrangea has stems with branches, prune back to a crotch.
_______________________________________________________________________
Smooth Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens)
WHEN? Prune late winter/early spring
(Blooms on new growth)
HOW? Cut tallest or floppiest canes to the ground
Note: Can be completely cut to the ground—optional, done every few years in winter or very early spring.
_____________________________________________________________________
Panicle Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata)
WHEN? Prune late winter/early spring
(Blooms on new growth)
HOW? Cut branched stems or twigs to a crotch
Cane forming varieties: Cut tallest or floppiest canes to the ground
______________________________________________________________________________
Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)
WHEN? Prune immediately after blooming (early-mid summer)
(Blooms on old growth)
HOW? Cut branched stems to a crotch or to the ground
________________________________________________________________________
Big Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)
WHEN?
Old fashioned: Prune immediately after blooming (mid-summer)
Blooms once a season on old growth
Reblooming (new): Prune immediately after first flush of bloom (mid-summer)
Blooms on old and new growth
Note: Deadheading spent flowers will encourage reblooming
HOW? Cut tallest canes to the ground
Have a question or want to suggest a topic for Hort Minute? Please e-mail Gail at riverfront37@verizon.net.
Question: “How do you prune hydrangeas?”
Submitted by Carol Williams (Thank you!)
General Rules of Thumb
• Many hydrangeas do not need pruning. Simply cut off dead tips or branches in the spring.
• If you must prune heavily to control size, the plant is in the wrong place.
• Do not prune any hydrangeas between September and January
• Do not “shear” hydrangeas. That is, do not cut them uniformly tight like a hedge. Cut individual stems.
• When pruning, use hand pruners or a small hand saw, not mechanical tools.
• Do not remove more than 1/3 of the stems in one season.
• Remove dead flowers any time you wish.
Two Questions
Ask only two questions:
WHEN to prune?
HOW to prune?
WHEN TO PRUNE is determined by the species (type) of hydrangea
Depending on the species, hydrangeas form flower buds in one of two ways:
On NEW growth of the current season
On OLD growth of the previous season
When to prune will be determined by the time of flower bud formation. You want to avoid cutting off buds of future flowers.
Too complicated? See the WHEN and HOW of the four most common hydrangeas below.
HOW TO PRUNE is determined by the shrub’s overall shape (habit)
Canes: If your hydrangea has canes (stems) that grow straight from the ground without branches (like a porcupine), cut the tallest or floppiest canes to the ground. Do not cut canes halfway.
Branched: If your hydrangea has stems with branches, prune back to a crotch.
_______________________________________________________________________
Smooth Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens)
WHEN? Prune late winter/early spring
(Blooms on new growth)
HOW? Cut tallest or floppiest canes to the ground
Note: Can be completely cut to the ground—optional, done every few years in winter or very early spring.
_____________________________________________________________________
Panicle Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata)
WHEN? Prune late winter/early spring
(Blooms on new growth)
HOW? Cut branched stems or twigs to a crotch
Cane forming varieties: Cut tallest or floppiest canes to the ground
______________________________________________________________________________
Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)
WHEN? Prune immediately after blooming (early-mid summer)
(Blooms on old growth)
HOW? Cut branched stems to a crotch or to the ground
________________________________________________________________________
Big Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)
WHEN?
Old fashioned: Prune immediately after blooming (mid-summer)
Blooms once a season on old growth
Reblooming (new): Prune immediately after first flush of bloom (mid-summer)
Blooms on old and new growth
Note: Deadheading spent flowers will encourage reblooming
HOW? Cut tallest canes to the ground
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